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| Step | Action | Why It Matters | Common Pitfalls to Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Pipe Cutting & Beveling | Cut the pipe square, then bevel the end at a 30-35° angle (1/16" bevel width). | Ensures full penetration of the weld and reduces stress concentration. | Uneven cuts lead to misalignment; too steep a bevel weakens the joint. |
| 2. Fit-Up: The Critical Gap | insert the pipe into the fitting socket until it bottoms out, then pull back 1/16" (1.6mm). | Leaves space for weld metal to flow, preventing cracking from thermal expansion. | No gap = weld fills the space, causing stress when the pipe heats/cools. |
| 3. Tack Welding | Apply 2-3 small tack welds (1/4" long) evenly around the joint to hold alignment. | Keeps the pipe centered during final welding; prevents shifting. | Tacks that are too large or uneven distort the joint. |
| 4. Final Welding | Use a steady, slow arc to build up the weld in layers; ensure full fusion with the pipe and fitting. | Creates a homogeneous bond that withstands pressure and vibration. | Rushing leads to cold laps (unfused areas); excessive heat causes burn-through. |
| 5. Post-Weld Cleaning & Inspection | Grind away spatter, then inspect with visual checks or liquid penetrant testing (LPT). | Removes flaws hidden by spatter; LPT detects surface cracks. | Skipping inspection misses tiny cracks that grow under pressure. |
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